In a culture of mass production, skilled trades like chainstitching are hard to find. Most of the folks who were practicing this technique are either long gone, impossible to find on the internet, or their machines ended up in junkyards when digital embroidery replaced them.

In recent years, there has been a consumer renaissance where folks are looking for more in the things they buy. They’re not in the market for just cheap, but want to invest in articles of clothing and accessories that are going to last a lifetime.

Mike’s chainstitchin’ friend Jerry Atwood of Hoosier Chainstitch Co. shares why it’s near to impossible to find chainstitch embroiderers, chainstitch machines, well, chainstitch anything.

The first chainstitch machine was invented around 1865 by a French company, Cornelli, to replace the tedious labor of hand embroidery. By the Victorian period, chainstitch embroidery on clothing was ever so popular. By the 40s and 50s it was so common in Western Wear you could spot it from a mile away (especially when it was surrounded by rhinestones – Porter Wagoner style).

Take a look at this Vouge article sharing how Jerry’s chainstich creations are clothing some of the most popular names in music.

Mike has several Motorcycle Club shirts  that are brilliant examples of chainstitch embroidery which allowed customization of a shirt or jacket – key in any club you wanted to rep.

style blog vintage shirts
Mike Wolfe’s Motorcycle Club shirts from the 50s/60s. Photo by Meghan Aileen.

 Jerry made an interesting point: Part of the beauty of the chainstitch is its variation. Within the pattern, you could see how experienced the artist was… if the artist was having an “off” day… or if the machine was being quirky that afternoon.

Thinking about that made me take a second look to wonder what kind of day the artists might’ve been having while sewing on those shirts we have in our shop.

Embroiderers today face a difficult problem. If there are no machines to even buy (Jerry scours the internet for used machines and parts), who can fix them when they break? Luckily, they’re a simple machine with pretty minimal maintenance. But if the machine completely busts… who do you call? There’s all of two people — One company in L.A. for machine repair, and a metal fabricator in Michigan who makes replacement parts for the machine.

As we all know, trends come n’ go… You may not see embroidered suits and shirts being worn so casually anymore, but good to know there are still people out there still carrying on the tradition.

chain stitching detail
Photo by Meghan Aileen




18 thoughts on “Chainstitch Embroidery: A Mighty Fine Detail”

  1. Loraine

    My husband and I follow The Pickers show continually and just love it.
    I grew up on a farm in Iowa, not far from the Quad Cities and can soooo relate to Mike & Frank!
    We live in Rockford Illinois.
    We of course watched the show when it was here with Cheap Trick, who we also know.
    Will you be returning to Rockford?
    Our one son knows Danielle, so another connection.
    Keep up the good work.

  2. cathy

    My husband and I watch every week!!! we love to watch how excited you get over the bikes and frank over the cans .you guys are awesome!!! KEEP ON PICKING!!! if your in western OK. stop by and have a cup of coffee!!! but please NO MORE OSYTERS!!!! stay safe out there!!

  3. Rosie

    Mike Wolfe…you are so funny. I watch American Pickers every week- it makes the week worthwhile…celebrating the antique, vintage and rust treasures.
    Please keep up the great work Mike and it’s great to see such a good friendship with Frank through sharing the same interest in Picking Freestyle on- the- road!
    Mike,you are an inspiration for many-I hope to come to your country one day to meet you and find great Picking items to share too.
    Lots of love from your friend Rosie.

  4. Paula Ries

    jerry really is a master artist at embroidery! Thanks to the resurgence in interest in these cool machines you can get one made in the USA! I will be getting mine soon from Woodland Quilt works and they offer lifetime support. They are new machines too and they have fixed some issues that some of the vintage machines have. You’ll see a lot of them for sale on ebay/amazon but the ones from Woodland you have to think it’s like getting a Sailrite machine verse a look a like made of lesser metals in another country (some parts are not made in the USA but they are of a higher quality metal). There’s a guy in Central Massachusetts that works on them too. I’ve been wanting one of these machines since I asked my professor in grad school what kind of machine did the kind of work I was seeing in these beautiful garments in our historic costume collection. Many were embroidered using these types of machines. I have a beaded and chain stitched embroidered dress that my grand mother had in the 1920’s. Some of the more expensive pieces have hand embroidery on them but many have this type of machine chain stitch embroidery. Watching the machines work is magical!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.